Beiträge von PJay

  • Wieviel Power hält die G 60 Kuplung eigentlich aus ?

    Die Leistung ist nicht so entscheidend - eher das Drehmoment. Den Wert kann man errechnen.

    M(k)=F(r)*r(m)

    M(k)= Kupplungsdrehmoment in Nm
    F(r)= Reibkraft in N
    r(m)= wirksamer mittlerer Radius

    Die Reibkraft F(r) ist abhängig von der Normalkraft F(n) (Anpresskraft der Federn) und der Reibungszahl u (mü) und der Zahl der Reibflächenpaarungen z

    F(r)=F(n)*u*z

    Der Erhöhung der Reibkraft F(r) d.h. der Erhöung des übertragbaren Drehmoments durch Vergrösserung der Normalkraft F(n) sind Grenzen gesetzt. Eine zu hohe Flächenpressung führt zur Zerstörung der Kupplungsbeläge. Die zulässige Flächenpressung sollte 20N/cm² nicht übersteigen!

    Du kannst also die Materialien deiner Kupplung ändern (Sintermetallkupplung), bis zu einem gewissen Grad die Federspannung erhöhen (Sachs-Sportkupplung) oder eine Zwei-oder Mehrscheibenkupplung verbauen.

    Die Original-Kupplung hält im NEUWERTIGEN Zustand ungefähr das 1,3 - 2,0 fache Motordrehmoment des Serienmotors aus....

    Hoffe geholfen zu haben :)

    Ciao Patrick

  • UV-Tachobeleuchtung

    Hi!

    kannst du ja machen - aber die Farbe von Fernlicht und BlinkerLeds sind gesetzlich vorgeschrieben - evtl bekommst du noch Tüv mit einer orangenen Fernlichtkontrollanzeige.

    Ciao

    Patrick

  • Mist von Mattig!!!

    Wow!

    Deine Freundin ist dir bei 230km/h weggeflogen weil sie zu dünner Billigramsch war? :)
    Und nun hast du dir eine neue für 80DM bestellt? :)
    Aber versuch sie doch mal auf andere Weise als mit dem Heissluftfön "heiss" zu bekommen.
    :)
    Und denk dran - die neue nicht bei 230km/h aus dem Fenster lehnen lassen!

    :zwink: Ciao Patrick

  • An die SchiebedachSpezies: Glasschiebedach für meinen Rado

    Okay hier ist die kopierte Anleitung aus dem amerikanischen Corrado-forum. (Bilder wie was wann wo wie fest geschraubt werden muss gibts da auch) - http://www.corradoclub.com - TOPIC: retrofit moonroof

    Here it is:


    My '92 Corrado VR6 sunroof had started to misbehave...a

    common occurrence on the Corrado. The roof panel started to jam during closing

    from the fully retracted position. The paint on the driver's side back

    corner of the panel was beginning to scratch (only clear coat affected

    thus far). I decided not to risk any further damage so I stopped retracting

    the roof and I have used only the tilt function for the last 1.5 years.

    This summer I decided to try to get it working again. Since I didn't really

    know for sure which parts were the problem, replacing all the major moving

    parts at once seemed the thing to do to be sure of a fix. Checking the

    local dealer for replacement part prices, I was taken aback. To replace

    just the 3 sliders on both sides of the track would cost over $300. Having

    heard about Corrado's getting retrofit with sunroofs and even glass moonroofs

    from other VW's, I decided it was time to give it a try. Found a '96 Passat

    moonroof at GermanAutoHaus (formerly Bug World; http://www.bugworld.com) for $400

    (without motor) plus $60 shipping. The Passat roof is said to be a close

    fit to the Corrado's, so it seemed the best choice.

    Thus begun the adventure of retrofitting my roof. Below

    you will see a number of images I put together to assist others in planning/performing

    similar retrofits.Feel free to contact

    me with questions.


    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    Diagram 1: 1996 Passat Moonroof track parts exploded view.

    Seems my visit to the dealer wasn't a waste of time. This diagram shows

    all the major parts of the actual track, including the air deflector (14),

    the drive motor (17), interior dome light housing/motor cover (23) and

    the interior track trim piece (1). This trim piece is easy to pry off of

    and push back on the track's inside edge. This piece was a cream color on the replacement roof so I reused the Corrado grey one instead. Since the diagram was provided

    by the dealer, I assume all labeled parts are available as replacements.


    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    Diagram 2: Sunroof & Moonroof mechanism components,

    exploded view. Note that the Passat SUNroof is depicted in

    the upper part of the diagram while the glass panel MOONroof

    is shown below. I've added labels to the components I call sliders (because

    that's what they do!). Note the part number 36 near the rear edge of the

    moonroof track. This little part is a rubber bump stop for the headliner

    panel and it seems to be only on the moonroof track; the Corrado's (and

    Passat's) sunroof track doesn't have it. Again, I assume all the labeled

    parts are replaceable... but not necessarily cheap. I had to replace the

    drivers side rocker slider since my replacement roof's was damaged (rocker

    lever pivot arm broke off)...it cost $65 USD. The front slider with its

    air deflector arm attached (20) was $99...thankfully, mine didn't need

    replacing. Also, the felt-covered glass panel sealing bead is not shown.

    I decided to replace the worn out/torn one that came with my moonroof.

    Cost was $50. It was fairly easy to pull the old one off the glass panel.

    Replacing with the new bead was a NIGHTMARE! Easily the most difficult

    part of the entire roof retrofit! The seal is made of a fairly inflexible

    plastic, not rubber. It has a lower and upper edges that must be engaged

    in upper ? lower grooves all the way around the glass panel. Took me

    over 3 hours to get it in place, using various methods of force and lots

    of soapy water to lubricate. My hands ached for three days! Proceed at

    your own risk!


    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------


    Fig. 1: Drivers side interior with headliner, rear roof

    trim, B-pillar and A-pillar trim panels removed. B-Back

    of car; F-

    Front of car. Loosening the front part of the C-pillar panel also helps

    in headliner removal. Note positions of B-pillar panel mounting screw holes.

    The upper hole also mounts the coat hanger bracket. Middle screw is located

    behind a small plastic cover plug in the B-pillar trim panel. Red line

    shows approximate location of the "hidden" mount screw behind the lower

    side panel. To reach this screw, it was necessary to partially remove the

    lower side panel so that a small 90 degree ratcheting driver, with Phillips

    head attached, could be used. This lower panel has one mount screw located

    down near the door sill. Fold the rear seat down to expose two plastic

    nuts that help loosen the panel further.


    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------


    Fig. 2: Corrado's stock roof after headliner removed.

    Some of the sunroof track mounting bolts are indicated as well as the passenger

    side locating pin position. Bentley states to remove the roof panel prior

    to removing the track.This is really only important if you want to re-use

    or re-sell parts of the assemble later on, since you can only access the

    components with the roof panel removed. To do this, it's necessary to tilt

    the roof and slide the headliner back to gain access to the roof panel's

    mounting bolts. Bentley shows a special tool for sliding the headliner

    back. I think it could be easily done by pulling the inner liner down with

    a large putty knife blade or similar flat tool until it's even with the

    outer liner. Then push both liner parts rearward to disengage the liner's

    frame from the main sunroof track. Since I removed the roof with it in

    the closed position, I had to re-attach the motor drive and operate the

    roof on my work bench to attain the tilt position and then proceed with

    disassembly. If you're just going to discard the stock assembly, go ahead

    and remove in the closed position with headliner in place. However, if

    you're like me and have a "pack-rat" mentality, you will see a lot of the

    track parts are fully interchangeable with the Passat roof, so they might

    be handy one day.


    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    Fig. 3: Close up of drivers side rear drain barbed fitting

    and it's disconnected hose. Another track bolt is visible near the middle

    of the image.


    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------


    Fig. 4: Corrado's drivers side front drain barbed fitting

    and its disconnected hose. The plastic drain fitting my on Passat roof

    was damaged in shipping (despite warning them to protect these fragile

    areas!). Since the dealer does not sell these separately, I cannibalized

    the one off the Corrado track (identical). It's held on by plastic posts

    (opposite side location shown in picture) welded through holes in the metal

    track. Prying off the drain shears most of these posts cleanly off.

    I was able to align the few remaining posts and used black silicone sealant

    and some clamps to attach it to the new track. You might be able to save

    more posts by grinding/drilling off the flattened head of the posts inside

    the track groove from above.


    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    Fig. 5: A damaged A-pillar panel can be easily repaired

    with fiberglass cloth and a little polyester resin. The panel had cracked

    nearly completely in half near the point where the mounting screw went through

    the mount hole (shown above). The outside "leatherette" skin was undamaged,

    the the panel was flimsy and in danger of further deterioration. I cut a

    couple of layers of fiberglass cloth to shape and applied the resin with a

    small brush, being careful not to put excessive amounts on and get it all

    over the other side. After the 3 hour set time, the panel was stiffer & stronger

    than the stock panel from the other side of the car. The resin, cloth &

    catalyst can be purchased in a low cost kit at any good automotive supply

    store with body repair supplies.

    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------


    Fig. 6: Driverside Corrado sunroof mechanism in detail after

    removal. The only real difference from the '96 Passat system I could detect

    was the inner headliner tilt mechanism.

    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------


    Fig.7: Passat roof track installed with sliding headliner

    panel (shown pushed back). The track bolts right up to the stock roof holes.

    Even though the locating pins (see Fig. 2 for the drivers side pin

    location) are slightly longer on the Passat track, they still fit perfectly.

    Perhaps they just provide a little bit more roof clearance for the glass

    roof. Note that the headliner's frame is pushed back fully and is not even

    visible here. This completely exposes the drivers side roof panel mechanism

    (shown in the roof-closed position) with the mounting points for the panel

    labeled. These mounts allow some adjustment in the roof panel's position.

    When the panel is installed, just slightly tighten the bolts and check

    the roof position. I initially pushed the panel as low as possible to ensure

    clearance with the roof opening. Later, after a few test runs, I adjusted

    it up a little to better fit the roof line. I had to replace the rocker

    slider on this side since the original one was damaged. The new one is

    black instead of chrome, but basically identical otherwise. The rocker

    looks something like a type of beer-bottle opener.


    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    Fig.8: View from outside, looking down at passenger side.

    Here you can see the headliner's frame almost fully forward. The headliner

    runs along a track in this frame. The metal clip engages in the rubber

    grommet on the post when all the way forward (you'll feel it snap in) and

    this holds the frame in place during normal operation. The only time you

    need to push it back is to gain access to the roof panel's mounting bolts.

    Note the original Passat chrome rocker at left (I could not tell the difference

    with the new one or even the Corrado's rocker...interchangeable?).


    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------


    Fig. 9: A close up of the passenger side rocker and the

    cable slider in front of it. This is in the roof closed position. According

    to Bentley, the cable slider pivots must be aligned with the notch in the

    track before connecting the motor to the track. The rocker back end must

    also be engaged in a notch in the track (not visible here...see Fig.

    8 for detail). Also, the motor must be in the roof-closed position.

    To obtain this, with the motor detached from the track, plug it into its

    electrical connector and operate the roof switch. The closed position is

    reached when the motor stops turning between the fully tilted (two turns

    away) and fully retracted (nine turns away) positions. Note the position

    of the rubber bumper on the left end of the rocker. This little O-ring

    is what the CCA website garage section mentioned should be replaced on

    the stock roof (using 3mm cloth-covered vacuum hose) to help prevent roof

    failure. Although changing it eliminated the popping sound during roof

    operation, I still ended up with roof jams & scratches less than 2

    years afterwards. I don't believe it's the whole story...just one of many

    wear items on these mechanisms.


    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    Fig. 10: A close up of the drivers side rocker & cable

    sliders in the roof closed position (the roof panel is actually installed

    in this picture). Note the rocker end engaged in the rear track notch and

    the cable slider's pivot positioned above the forward track notch. The

    rocker wheel can also be seen here, but the rubber bumper O-ring is just

    out of the picture to the left of the wheel.

    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    Fig. 11: Finished moonroof in closed position while headliner

    pushed back. Fit is very close all around, perhaps a little less snug than

    stock. Note the light appearance of the outer sealing bead is due to reflection

    from the camera flash…it is jet black in ambient light.

    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------


    Fig. 12: The tilted position.


    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    Fig. 13: Fully open. Note the inner trim piece used was the

    original gray cloth one from the Corrado. Headliner is indicated pushed all

    the way back. The air deflector was identical to the stock unit is shape and

    position and is thus a prefect fit.


    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------


    Results:


    I am extremely pleased with the final results. The new roof looks/fits/operates

    just as if it was a stock one. I took the headliner panel into a local

    automotive upholstry place and selected a light charcoal grey cloth (it

    came with a light cream colored cloth and plastic handle) to have it re-covered

    and I removed the plastic handle and repainted it in "Soldier Grey" spray

    paint. From the inside it really blends in perfectly. From the outside,

    the roof panel is level & even all the way around the opening and the

    felt sealing bead is also evenly aligned (although somewhat higher than

    the roof opening & glass panel) all the way around.

    Okay - wie gesagt - genauer ist es auf deren Seite http://www.corradoclub.com beschrieben!

    Ciao

    Patrick

    PS: Passt nicht gibts nicht - alles ist machbar - es muss nur jemand genug Zeit Wissen Geld und Gedult mitbringen........

  • Wieviel Rad geht ohne Bördeln/Radkästen

    Sorry - aber ich fahre 7,5x15 mit H&R Gewindefahrwerk (Tieferlegung ??? so halt das man damit nirgendwo aufsetzt) und bei mir hätte es ohne Bördeln voll geschliffen...

    Sorry - aber 9x16 sind nicht gerade schmale Felgen - und ich kann mir echt nicht vorstellen, das man die ohne weiteres fahren kann. Es sei den man hat eine sehr komische Einpresstiefe gewählt......

    Ciao

    Patrick

  • Umbau G60 Hinterachse ???

    Der G60 hat gar keinen Hauptbremszylinder im eigentlichen Sinne - aber wenn du eh auf G60 umbaust wird es sowieso etwas schwer irgendwo Unterdruck herzubekommen.....

    Übernimm einfach die komplette Bremsanlage inkl. ABS

    Ciao

    Patrick

  • Stoßdämpfer hinten verrecken ständig!!!!!!!!

    Ganz einfach! Deine Dämpfer gehen dauern kaputt welch die Kolbenstange zu lang für ein tiefergelegtes Auto ist! Vor allem bei Jamex kommt die Karre oft viel tiefer als angegeben! - Das maximum von Tieferlegungen ohne kürzere Dämpfer zu verbauen sollte 40mm sein. Sonst schlägt der Kolbenboden an den Boden vom Stossdämpfer......

    Ciao

    Patrick

  • DIGI TEC CHIP

    Hi!

    150.000 km sind für einen Motor in der heutigen Zeit nicht mehr viel! Das war vielleicht vor 30 Jahren anders - als es noch eine Menge Luftgekühlter Krabeltiere in Deutschland gab... Aber mittlereweile sollte man sich schon fast mehr Sorgen um die Blechteile am Auto alls um den Motor machen. Bei einem 6-Zylinder sollte man sich ab 300.000km mal überlegen ob man nicht mal die Lager wechseln lassen will und die Zylinder auf Verschleiß überprüfen - im Normalfall ergebnislos. VW-Motoren sind eben fast unkaputtbar - wer noch einen Golf I GTI hat, so wie ich - wird wissen was ich meine....

    Ciao

    Patrick